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Small Livestock Raising

They’re not just for pets.

 

 

   Even if you’re ‘landlocked’, living in a small home or apartment, you can raise small animals for food as you’ll see in the following examples.  I’ve provided a link where possible so you can access even more, complete information.  Ideal for the small time homesteader.

Some of these sources may shock you, but in hard times, they will feed you.  Keep in mind, these are used as food sources in many parts of the world.  If you have suggestions for other resources, let me know at: bedavid@yahoo.com

 

 

Khaki Campbell ducks

Called Campbells because they were developed by Mrs Adele Campbell in Britain a hundred years ago, and they're khaki-colored, or darker, like cocoa, with green beaks, and the drakes have dark green heads and bronze backs and tails. Very cute ducks.

Adele mixed Indian Runner, Mallard, and Rouen ducks in search of an egg-laying machine, and succeeded admirably.

There are some breeds of chicken which might be able to outlay a Khaki Campbell, but they're probably highly specialized birds and might be more trouble than they're worth. Khaki Campbells are no trouble at all -- they're hardy, and good foragers. They'll lay 300 eggs a year or more -- up to 340. And they'll eat all the slugs and snails in your garden, and clear the pond of mosquitoes. Good backyard duck.

You’ll find this site loaded with excellent how-to information on raising a varieties of ducks and chickens.

http://www.journeytoforever.org/farm_poultry.html

 

 

 

DIY Vet Resources

 

Many times people bring their pets to a veterinarian for things they could prevent themselves at home. "Though it is important for your pet to have regular exams," advises Dr. Ernie Ward, "pet owners should do at-home check ups that could ultimately save your pet's life and save you money."

As money has become tight for many folks, we thought you might find these resources useful.

 

http://www.rachaelrayshow.com/show/segments/view/diy-vet/

http://www.ssrsi.org/911/Medical/vetmed.htm

http://www.petmd.com/blogs/fullyvetted/2010/nov/diy_pet_medicine

 

 

Pet coupons, supplies, samples & DIY Tips

 

http://www.dailyedeals.com/coupons/pets.htm

http://www.freemania.net/samples/pet.htm

http://www.couponcraze.com/categories/Pets/

http://www.couponcabin.com/pet-supplies/coupons.htm

http://www.pet-food-coupon.com/

 

 

Raising frogs for profit & eatingplenty of pitfalls to consider.

 

When I was a young lad, a local hospital paid us 10 cents a frog. We captured them with nets at a local pond. Frog legs, whether French fried or sautéed in garlic & butter are mighty good.

Edible Frogs

A number of species of frogs, including the green frog (Rana clamitans), the leopard frog (Rana pipiens), and the pickerel frog (Rana palustris), are harvested from the wild and sold as a luxury food - frog legs - in expensive restaurants. However, the bullfrog (Rana catesbeiana) has the greatest potential for culture.

The common bullfrog, often referred to as the "Giant Frog" or "Jumbo Frog," is the largest native North American species, often reaching 8 inches in body length. Because of its large size, the bullfrog is the most preferred and commonly attempted species for farming.

Frogs and other amphibians are coldblooded animals that grow slowly, not a particularly desirable trait for farming. The rate of growth of the bullfrog tadpole varies with the climate, length of the growing season, and available food supply. Even in temperate climates, it may take a year or more to transform the tadpole into a young bullfrog. Another year or more is required to produce a mature, marketable-size bullfrog. Therefore, in the mid-latitude states like Virginia, development from egg to a mature bullfrog of harvestable size may take over 3 years, even under ideal conditions.

http://www.mixph.com/2006/07/raising-frogs-for-meat.html

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Sustainable-Farming/1978-07-01/Theres-Big-Money-in-the-Secret-Art-of-Frog-Farming.aspx

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take a Gander
From GRIT magazine, by Jennifer Kendall

 

For many folks, ducks and geese are merely ornamental entertainment. We see them on ponds and lakes, and we enjoy their beauty and grace from a distance; however, we often forget their role in our agricultural past. Throughout our history, ducks and geese have been staples on farms across North America.

For centuries, families and small farmers valued these animals for their many products and services including meat, eggs, fat, down and feathers, weed control, alarms and more. Today, most folks have forgotten the role that ducks and geese can play in sustainable farm practices. Unfortunately, that’s led to a fowl loss, including many historic breeds that helped our founding fathers and mothers make a go of it in the New World. Take a gander at some of the remaining rare-breed geese and ducks and see waddle you think!

 

Chinese Goose
Status: Watch
Are you looking for beauty, brains and practicality? Look no further than the Chinese goose. Known for its elegance and grace, the swan goose, as it’s often called, is the quintessential backyard beauty, but don’t let the good looks fool you. Chinese geese are one of the most active foragers, best egg layers, and exceptional meat producers of all the geese breeds. Originating in Asia several centuries ago, the Chinese goose is an ancient breed with modern applications. Chinese geese can provide 40 to 100 eggs annually for the family. Their noisy, chatty nature makes them a great “watchgoose” for the farm or homestead. Also, as first-class foragers, these geese are great for weed control and lawn maintenance.

The Chinese goose is a lightweight breed, with geese averaging 10 pounds and ganders averaging 12 pounds. This alluring goose comes in two color varieties, brown and white. The goose has a long, slender, well-arched neck with a short and compact body. The breed has a distinctive knob on its head that has led to the nickname the knob goose. Today, the breed’s numbers are improving as more and more small farms discover the value and charm of the Chinese goose.

 

 

Pilgrim Goose
Status: Critical
While the “Pilgrim” name suggests that the Pilgrim goose was an early traveler on the Mayflower, the breed is actually a more recent resident. Oscar Grow, one of the leading U.S. authorities on waterfowl in the early 1900s, is credited with developing the breed. So, why the Pilgrim name? When Grow and his wife relocated to Missouri during the Great Depression, the story is that she named the geese in honor of their “pilgrimage” to the new state. The Pilgrim is known for its autosexing characteristics. In fact, it’s the only goose breed in which the gender of goslings and adult birds is distinguishable by color. For the novice goose-keeper, the autosexing traits combined with the breed’s docile and personable temperament make it an ideal choice for the home flock.

The Pilgrim goose is a medium-weight breed, weighing 13 to 14 pounds at maturity. Day-old male Pilgrims are a silver-yellow with light-colored bills. Adult males are mostly white with gray rumps. Day-old females are olive-gray with darker bills. As adults, the females are a dove-gray with varying amounts of white in the face. Pilgrims typically lay 25 to 40 eggs annually. With fewer than 500 breeding birds reported annually in the United States, this American original is in need of conservation stewards.

 

Roman Goose
Status: Critical


From the midst of antiquity comes the Roman goose breed. Originating in Italy more than 2,000 years ago, these geese were considered sacred to Juno, goddess of marriage. Due to their small stature, Roman geese do well in both small pens and large pastures. If you are limited on space, the size of the Roman goose allows it to tolerate smaller spaces, eat less and leave less manure. For some folks, less is more – making them the ideal fit for the small farm. The Roman goose also makes a good “watchgoose.” Lore has it that Roman geese gave the alarm when Rome was attacked by the Gauls in 365 B.C.

The Roman goose is a lightweight breed, weighing 10 to 12 pounds. Like any Roman royal, the Roman goose appears to wear a “crown” on its head, called a tuft. The headpiece of feathers gives the Roman goose a unique appearance. Roman geese are typically a majestic white, and they lay 25 to 35 eggs per year. Despite their small size, they produce a quality roasting bird for the family. Today, the Roman goose is in need of conservation stewards to ensure the breed’s past, present and future.

 

Aylesbury Duck
Status: Critical
The Aylesbury duck is a British meat breed that originated near London in the Vale of Aylesbury. In the 1800s, the breed was well-known in the United Kingdom as the premier table bird; their rapid growth rate, white skin and succulent meat were legendary. Stories tell of Aylesbury ducks being herded nearly 40 miles to the markets of London where they were prized by British gourmands. The Aylesbury was one of the first European duck breeds brought to the United States, and it was accepted into the American Standard of Perfection published in 1874.

 

Today, the Aylesbury duck remains a wonderful meat breed, ideal for the small farm or home flock. The Aylesbury is considered a heavyweight breed, with ducks weighing between 9 and 10 pounds at maturity. The breed is pure white with orange feet and legs, dark grayish-blue eyes, and a long, pinkish-white bill. The Aylesbury is known for its deep keel that almost drags the ground. Aylesbury ducks lay 35 to 125 eggs annually and are known for laying eggs during the winter season. More conservation breeders of Aylesbury ducks are critically needed.

 

About ALBC


The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy is a nonprofit membership organization working to protect more than 170 breeds of livestock and poultry from extinction. Founded in 1977, ALBC is the pioneer organization in the United States working to conserve historic breeds and genetic diversity in livestock. ALBC’s mission is to ensure the future of agriculture through genetic conservation and the promotion of endangered breeds of livestock and poultry.

Membership in the organization is $35 per year. For more information or to join, call 919-542-5704 or visit the website at www.ALBC-USA.org.

 

Excerpted from GRIT, Celebrating Rural America Since 1882. To read more articles from GRIT, please visit www.Grit.com or call (866) 624-9388 to subscribe. Copyright 2011 by Ogden Publications Inc.

 

 

 

Dairy Goats Offer Niche Meat
Selling off dairy bucks can provide a valuable service, and add money to your pocket
.
From GRIT magazine, by Carolyn Evans-Dean

If you raise dairy goats, it’s bound to happen. You will find yourself with too many bucks and no desire to keep them. With owners citing foul odors, high cost of feed, and a buck’s uncanny ability to escape and mate with the does, many of these unlucky males find themselves going off to freezer camp, slaughtered to sustain the farm family through the winter.

The coping mechanism works for a while. After all, there are many tasty ways to prepare goat, and it is low in fat making it a healthful choice – curried goat, goat stew, goat chops, goat tenderloin, barbecued cabrito, mshikaki, chivo picante, kaldaretta and spicy leg of goat, to name a few. Once you exhaust your personal repertoire of recipes though, your family might grow weary of eating goat in its many varied forms.

 

All is not lost, however. As exhibited by the diverse names of the dishes listed, many recipes arrive as people immigrate to the United States. As a matter of fact, goat meat is the single most popular meat in the world; a bit of trivia that is not widely known, and most Americans are usually surprised when they hear it.

 

Armed with this tidbit of information, it is possible to create some farm income by selling your excess bucks to ethnic populations, usually found in urban centers. People from the Caribbean, the Middle East, Africa, Central and South America, Southeast Asia and Southern Europe number among your potential customers.

In 1993, the first Boer goats were imported into the United States. Primarily raised as a meat variety, their popularity has increased exponentially with demand. However, herd growth has not been able to keep up with the demand. According to the American Boer Goat Association, as much as $30 million worth of goat meat is imported to the United States each year. There is still such a shortage of the meat in the United States that many consumers are forced to substitute more widely available lamb in traditional recipes.

 

Now, you’re probably thinking those smelly bucks out in back of the barn aren’t exactly a meat goat variety, and they might be on the thin side when compared to a Boer goat. You’re probably right. But if you were determined to have a Thanksgiving turkey or an Easter ham and the only one available was a little on the small side, you’d likely take it anyway. People who like goat meat feel much the same. They want goat, even if it isn’t the exact weight they were originally looking for.

 

So, how do you reach out to these potential customers?

Try to locate a Halal butcher or slaughter facility in nearby cities. Such facilities specialize in slaughtering animals in the way dictated by the Islamic religion. Chances are, they will be thrilled to hear that you have goats available, and they would perform the processing in accordance with their practices. By adhering to this technique, your meat will be more desirable to more people.

 

Another idea is to locate restaurants in nearby cities that specialize in Jamaican or Caribbean food. Look in the phone book or online for restaurants that have the words Caribbean, Jamaican, King or Jerk in their names. Traditionally, these types of establishments have a need on their authentic menus for goat meat. The owners may ask you to do the slaughtering, since they are in an urban area. Be sure to check local regulations about processing meat on your premises for sale to others.

 

If you seem to have a steady surplus of goats, visit Middle Eastern markets in larger cities. If they aren’t interested in purchasing your surplus animals, they might be able to pass your information along to someone who is.

Smaller traditional butcher shops and meat markets that tout themselves as “Old World” may be good places to sell meat goats. People of Southern European heritage often have good relationships with their butchers in order to obtain cuts of meat to prepare traditional meals.

 

Try placing a free advertisement on Craigslist.org. It seems that everybody is on Craigslist these days looking for just about anything. It stands to reason that you’d be able to find a buyer for your goat. Remember to place a new listing several times each week to ensure that your ad stays near the top in its category. Once your unwanted goats have been sold, you will want to edit the advertisement or remove it from the website.

 

Once you have a few satisfied customers, word of mouth will spread, providing you with a steady clientele and income. In fact, you may be tempted to take on the unwanted bucks belonging to your farming friends. You could do them a favor and line your pockets at the same time. Keep in mind that male goats can sometimes be smelly and a bit difficult. You will most likely want to line up customers before taking in those unwanted bucks.

 

How much can you expect to earn?

It really depends on your market. If you don’t have a nearby city with a population seeking goat meat, the perceived value of the goat is lower because of decreased interest. With a higher population, the demand will be greater with more opportunities to sell the goats.

 

By expanding your horizons and locating a few new customers to take your unwanted goats, you will free up valuable freezer space and be able to satisfy your family’s craving for variety by bringing something different to the table. Roast beef, anyone?

Excerpted from GRIT, Celebrating Rural America Since 1882. To read more articles from GRIT, please visit www.Grit.com or call (866) 624-9388 to subscribe. Copyright 2010 by Ogden Publications Inc.

 

Raising Rabbits


Benefits Of Rabbits

Raising rabbits are much cheaper, more efficient, and more productive than raising chickens.

1) A doe can produce up to 1000% her body weight in food per year. 
2) Rabbits can be raised in confinement, whereas chickens need much more space. 
3) Chicken reproduction is "light sensitive", whereas rabbit reproduction is opportunity sensitive. 
4) It is much easier to raise food for rabbits than it is food for chickens. 
5) Since rabbits are raised in confinement, it drastically reduces the threat to your herd from predators. 
6) You can skin and butcher 5 rabbits to every chicken given the same amount of time. 
7) Rabbit fur can be a separate barter item.

Rabbit meat tastes good too, some people say that it taste much like poultry.  Rabbit meat is mild and savory, never gamy. It is extremely lean, making it perfect for cholesterol-reducing diets. Cooking with liquids keeps rabbit dishes moist and tender. If you're not minding your fat intake, you may want to choose recipes that use oil to maintain juiciness. You can look for rabbit recipes in wild game cookbooks, but most of these just rehash the familiar methods of stewing, frying and baking.

Besides providing you with meat, rabbits produce dung, which makes a good fertilizer. Rabbit skins and fur have many uses.  A rabbit can be a source of instant cash in an emergency.  For more information go here:

http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/lib2/rabbits.htm

 

 

 

How to Raise Catfish in a Barrel

By Angie Mohr

Things You’ll Need:

·      55-gallon black plastic barrel (food grade)

·      Framed screen large enough to cover top of barrel

·      6-foot garden hose

·      Tap assembly for barrel

·      Aquarium oxygen pump

·      40 catfish fingerlings

·      Drill

·      File

·      Marine sealant

 

Set up tap assembly in the barrel. Mark a spot on your barrel approximately 8-inches up the side from the bottom. Drill out a circle just large enough to snugly fit the tap assembly. Smooth the edges of the hole with a file and insert the tap assembly with the tap facing outward. Attach assembly to barrel with marine sealant to create a water tight seal. Allow sealant to dry for 24 hours before adding water. Attach garden hose to the tap end of the assembly.

Hook up the aquarium oxygen pump according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Seat the pump firmly into the barrel and make sure that the water intake into the pump is screened over so as not to accidentally suck up the fish.

Find a suitable permanent location for the barrel. Keep the barrel in a shaded location safe from raccoons, cats, and other fish predators. The barrel will have to be close enough to an electrical outlet for the pump to plug in. Under an overhang on the north side of the house would be an ideal location

Fill the barrel with water. It is best to use tap water for this process as pond or lake water can contain toxic algae which can poison your catfish. When the barrel is full to within 8-inches of the top, allow the water to de-chlorinate for 24 hours before introducting the catfish.

Add your fingerling catfish. You can purchase fingerlings from your local Extension office or a local fishery. Add up to 40 fingerlings to your barrel. This number will allow the catfish to grow to eatable size (1 to 1 ½ lbs) in 9 months. Allow the fish to acclimatize to their new surroundings for 4 hours before feeding.

Feed your catfish twice a day. You can purchase commercial fish food or you can raise your own worms or larvae to feed them. Feed until catfish begin to lose interest in eating. If you feed too much, food will rot in the barrel and cause the water to become cloudy and encourage the growth of algae

Change out the water daily. Drain off 15 gallons of the pond water through the hose and tap assembly every day. Replace with 15 gallons of fresh tap water that has been allowed to de-chlorinate for 24 hours. Use the waste water as a nutrient-rich fertilizer for your garden.

Monitor the water temperature in the barrel frequently. The ideal temperatures for catfish are between 70 and 80 degrees F. In the north, this makes the ideal time to raise catfish from early spring until late fall. In the south, it is from early fall to late spring. Shade the barrel from the sun as much as possible in warm weather to moderate the temperature. Catfish can handle cooler temperatures but will grow more slowly.

 

Harvest your fish when they reach 1 to 1 ½ lbs. You can either harvest them fresh as you need them or harvest them all at once and freeze them, either whole or filetted. When all of the fish are harvested, drain the barrel and wash with a weak bleach solution before starting the next batch of fish.

 

Raising Turtles & Frogs for Food

 

Yes, turtles are an excellent source of protein, are easy to raise and taste great.

The site below offers how-to information including how to raise earthworms.

 

The only edible part of a frog is its hind legs. The delicate meat is tender and lightly sweet and can be most closely compared to the white meat of a very young chicken. Fresh frog's legs can be found from spring through summer in the fish section of many gourmet markets. They're usually sold in connected pairs ranging from 2 to 8 ounces. Look for those that are plump and slightly pink. Store, loosely wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Frozen frog's legs can usually be purchased year-round, though the flavor doesn't compare to fresh. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before cooking. Because their flavor is so subtle, frog's legs should be cooked simply and briefly. A quick dusting of seasoned flour before sautéing in butter or olive oil will gild the lily perfectly. Overcooking frog's legs will cause them to toughen

 

RAISING FROGS

The bulldog frog is considered a specialty in some countries because this is not commonly served and is unknown to many. Here in the Philippines, the frogs that are edible are the (rice fields) frogs that can be raised. When the frog is mature, this grows as long as 14 inches when stretched, and can weigh as much as half a kilo or more. It can thrive on land or in water.

The male frog has ears larger than its eyes, the females have the eyes as big as the ears. The females are bigger, but the males have their forelegs longer and stronger. The throat of the mating males is yellow and enlarged (inflamed) while that of the female is white.

 

The eyes of the frog are protruding and large and yellow; the tongue is long and sticky. They have no neck with which to turn the head around, so their protruding eyes are used to look upward, downward and around. Behind their eyes are large ears or hearing organ (tympanium) that are sensitive to sound and tremor in their environment.

In their natural habitat, frogs live in streams , ponds, water canals, rice folds and almost everywhere that there is water and vegetation where insects thrive. They feed on soft plants growing in the water like algae, and on fishes (even dead), insects, liver, cooked flour products, boiled potatoes, fresh meat and chicken and visceral, and meat even not fresh. The mature ones also live on insects, crabs, water insects, snails, shrimps, spider, crickets, grasshoppers, fish, snakes, termites, worms, wrigglers, earthworms, young turtles and birds. They like live foods to those that are alive and moving.

 

Egg laying

Frogs lay eggs from April to September. The eggs are laid on a thin sheet on a leaf top above the water. After the female lays eggs, the male frog fertilizes them from outside, and places them afterwards in an egg mass in the water. After 5-10 days, the eggs are hatched. From 10,000 - 20,000 eggs normally laid, only about 30%or less are hatched, live up to the tadpole stage, depending on the temperature of the water. The small frogs will grow and live on the plants in the water. The shape is like a narrow fish, with gills for breathing, without legs and with a tail for swimming.

The small ones will grow, a few weeks to a few months, and will become a full fledged frog. They will lose their gills but will develop lungs; discard the tail but four feet will grow; the intestines will be shorter and the mouth will be that of a frogs. At this time, the growing frog will live longer on land than in the water.

http://www.mixph.com/2006/07/raising-frogs-for-meat.html/comment-page-1

 

http://reslider.free.fr/backup/raising.html

 

 

Raising Chickens


Why Chickens?

Understanding your own reasons for growing chickens will help you choose the right flock and get setup with the right equipment. The main reasons people grow their own chickens are:

 

  • to have a supply of fresh eggs,
  • for fresh meat,
  • pest and weed control,
  • and a supply of nitrogen-rich manure.

What you plan to do with your flock will determine (to some degree) what you will need to do to get set up. For example, if you want to let your chickens run through your garden once in a while to gobble up insects, you will need to set up some means for controlling their access to the garden so they can't get in to eat tiny seedlings. If you want chickens for eggs, you will need to include nesting boxes in your hen house design.

The end purpose will also determine the composition of your flock. Some chickens, such as Leghorns, have been bred as layers, others have been bred for rapid meat production. Yet others, such as Rhode Island Reds, are good dual-purpose birds. If you are raising chickens to show, you will become very selective about their breeding.

The Brood

A good way to get started is to buy baby chicks. They are usually available from feed stores in early  Spring. You can also start by getting fertilized eggs and keeping them in an incubator until they hatch. Either way, you will need to get a brooder and keep it in the house or put it out in the garage where cats and other predators can't get at the chicks. For heat, be aware that chicks need 95 degrees for the first week. You can drop this by 5 degrees every week until they're 6 weeks old. Then they are fairly feathered out and unless you live in a very cold area, they are able to withstand normal temperatures. 

 

If you don't have a formal brooder, your heat source is usually a light bulb or heat-lamp. Be careful with these not to leave them low enough for the chicks to burn themselves. Also, especially with heat-lamps, be careful that the bedding can't catch fire. 

 

Fresh water should be available to the chicks at all times. As an energy supplement, I add one tablespoon of sugar per quart the first time I water newly hatched chicks.  For more information go this site:

http://www.i4at.org/lib2/chickens.htm

www.backyardchickens.com

 

 

Free Healthy Chickens Bulletin

Sign up to get an email bulletin which includes useful information regarding natural and organic care, prevention and remedies, supplements and treatments, common ailments and more.

www.backyardpoultrymag.com

LINKS TO FREE COOP PLANS!  

http://www.ext.vt.edu