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Articles II

 

 

Small Livestock Raising

They’re not just for pets.

 

 

   Even if you’re ‘landlocked’, living in a small home or apartment, you can raise small animals for food as you’ll see in the following examples.  I’ve provided a link where possible so you can access even more, complete information.  Ideal for the small time homesteader.

Some of these sources may shock you, but in hard times, they will feed you.  Keep in mind, these are used as food sources in many parts of the world.  If you have suggestions for other resources, let me know at: bedavid@yahoo.com

 

 

Khaki Campbell ducks

Called Campbells because they were developed by Mrs Adele Campbell in Britain a hundred years ago, and they're khaki-colored, or darker, like cocoa, with green beaks, and the drakes have dark green heads and bronze backs and tails. Very cute ducks.

Adele mixed Indian Runner, Mallard, and Rouen ducks in search of an egg-laying machine, and succeeded admirably.

There are some breeds of chicken which might be able to outlay a Khaki Campbell, but they're probably highly specialized birds and might be more trouble than they're worth. Khaki Campbells are no trouble at all -- they're hardy, and good foragers. They'll lay 300 eggs a year or more -- up to 340. And they'll eat all the slugs and snails in your garden, and clear the pond of mosquitoes. Good backyard duck.

You’ll find this site loaded with excellent how-to information on raising a varieties of ducks and chickens.

http://www.journeytoforever.org/farm_poultry.html

 

Raising Rabbits


Benefits Of Rabbits

Raising rabbits are much cheaper, more efficient, and more productive than raising chickens.

1) A doe can produce up to 1000% her body weight in food per year. 
2) Rabbits can be raised in confinement, whereas chickens need much more space. 
3) Chicken reproduction is "light sensitive", whereas rabbit reproduction is opportunity sensitive. 
4) It is much easier to raise food for rabbits than it is food for chickens. 
5) Since rabbits are raised in confinement, it drastically reduces the threat to your herd from predators. 
6) You can skin and butcher 5 rabbits to every chicken given the same amount of time. 
7) Rabbit fur can be a separate barter item.

Rabbit meat tastes good too, some people say that it taste much like poultry.  Rabbit meat is mild and savory, never gamy. It is extremely lean, making it perfect for cholesterol-reducing diets. Cooking with liquids keeps rabbit dishes moist and tender. If you're not minding your fat intake, you may want to choose recipes that use oil to maintain juiciness. You can look for rabbit recipes in wild game cookbooks, but most of these just rehash the familiar methods of stewing, frying and baking.

Besides providing you with meat, rabbits produce dung, which makes a good fertilizer. Rabbit skins and fur have many uses.  A rabbit can be a source of instant cash in an emergency.  For more information go here:

http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/lib2/rabbits.htm

 

 

 

How to Raise Catfish in a Barrel

By Angie Mohr

Things You’ll Need:

·      55-gallon black plastic barrel (food grade)

·      Framed screen large enough to cover top of barrel

·      6-foot garden hose

·      Tap assembly for barrel

·      Aquarium oxygen pump

·      40 catfish fingerlings

·      Drill

·      File

·      Marine sealant

 

Set up tap assembly in the barrel. Mark a spot on your barrel approximately 8-inches up the side from the bottom. Drill out a circle just large enough to snugly fit the tap assembly. Smooth the edges of the hole with a file and insert the tap assembly with the tap facing outward. Attach assembly to barrel with marine sealant to create a water tight seal. Allow sealant to dry for 24 hours before adding water. Attach garden hose to the tap end of the assembly.

Hook up the aquarium oxygen pump according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Seat the pump firmly into the barrel and make sure that the water intake into the pump is screened over so as not to accidentally suck up the fish.

Find a suitable permanent location for the barrel. Keep the barrel in a shaded location safe from raccoons, cats, and other fish predators. The barrel will have to be close enough to an electrical outlet for the pump to plug in. Under an overhang on the north side of the house would be an ideal location

Fill the barrel with water. It is best to use tap water for this process as pond or lake water can contain toxic algae which can poison your catfish. When the barrel is full to within 8-inches of the top, allow the water to de-chlorinate for 24 hours before introducting the catfish.

Add your fingerling catfish. You can purchase fingerlings from your local Extension office or a local fishery. Add up to 40 fingerlings to your barrel. This number will allow the catfish to grow to eatable size (1 to 1 ½ lbs) in 9 months. Allow the fish to acclimatize to their new surroundings for 4 hours before feeding.

Feed your catfish twice a day. You can purchase commercial fish food or you can raise your own worms or larvae to feed them. Feed until catfish begin to lose interest in eating. If you feed too much, food will rot in the barrel and cause the water to become cloudy and encourage the growth of algae

Change out the water daily. Drain off 15 gallons of the pond water through the hose and tap assembly every day. Replace with 15 gallons of fresh tap water that has been allowed to de-chlorinate for 24 hours. Use the waste water as a nutrient-rich fertilizer for your garden.

Monitor the water temperature in the barrel frequently. The ideal temperatures for catfish are between 70 and 80 degrees F. In the north, this makes the ideal time to raise catfish from early spring until late fall. In the south, it is from early fall to late spring. Shade the barrel from the sun as much as possible in warm weather to moderate the temperature. Catfish can handle cooler temperatures but will grow more slowly.

 

Harvest your fish when they reach 1 to 1 ½ lbs. You can either harvest them fresh as you need them or harvest them all at once and freeze them, either whole or filetted. When all of the fish are harvested, drain the barrel and wash with a weak bleach solution before starting the next batch of fish.

 

Raising Turtles & Frogs for Food

 

Yes, turtles are an excellent source of protein, are easy to raise and taste great.

The site below offers how-to information including how to raise earthworms.

 

The only edible part of a frog is its hind legs. The delicate meat is tender and lightly sweet and can be most closely compared to the white meat of a very young chicken. Fresh frog's legs can be found from spring through summer in the fish section of many gourmet markets. They're usually sold in connected pairs ranging from 2 to 8 ounces. Look for those that are plump and slightly pink. Store, loosely wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Frozen frog's legs can usually be purchased year-round, though the flavor doesn't compare to fresh. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight before cooking. Because their flavor is so subtle, frog's legs should be cooked simply and briefly. A quick dusting of seasoned flour before sautéing in butter or olive oil will gild the lily perfectly. Overcooking frog's legs will cause them to toughen

 

RAISING FROGS

The bulldog frog is considered a specialty in some countries because this is not commonly served and is unknown to many. Here in the Philippines, the frogs that are edible are the (rice fields) frogs that can be raised. When the frog is mature, this grows as long as 14 inches when stretched, and can weigh as much as half a kilo or more. It can thrive on land or in water.

The male frog has ears larger than its eyes, the females have the eyes as big as the ears. The females are bigger, but the males have their forelegs longer and stronger. The throat of the mating males is yellow and enlarged (inflamed) while that of the female is white.

The eyes of the frog are protruding and large and yellow; the tongue is long and sticky. They have no neck with which to turn the head around, so their protruding eyes are used to look upward, downward and around. Behind their eyes are large ears or hearing organ (tympanium) that are sensitive to sound and tremor in their environment.

In their natural habitat, frogs live in streams , ponds, water canals, rice folds and almost everywhere that there is water and vegetation where insects thrive. They feed on soft plants growing in the water like algae, and on fishes (even dead), insects, liver, cooked flour products, boiled potatoes, fresh meat and chicken and visceral, and meat even not fresh. The mature ones also live on insects, crabs, water insects, snails, shrimps, spider, crickets, grasshoppers, fish, snakes, termites, worms, wrigglers, earthworms, young turtles and birds. They like live foods to those that are alive and moving.

Egg laying

Frogs lay eggs from April to September. The eggs are laid on a thin sheet on a leaf top above the water. After the female lays eggs, the male frog fertilizes them from outside, and places them afterwards in an egg mass in the water. After 5-10 days, the eggs are hatched. From 10,000 - 20,000 eggs normally laid, only about 30%or less are hatched, live up to the tadpole stage, depending on the temperature of the water. The small frogs will grow and live on the plants in the water. The shape is like a narrow fish, with gills for breathing, without legs and with a tail for swimming.

The small ones will grow, a few weeks to a few months, and will become a full fledged frog. They will lose their gills but will develop lungs; discard the tail but four feet will grow; the intestines will be shorter and the mouth will be that of a frogs. At this time, the growing frog will live longer on land than in the water.

http://www.mixph.com/2006/07/raising-frogs-for-meat.html/comment-page-1

 

http://reslider.free.fr/backup/raising.html

 

 

Raising Chickens


Why Chickens?

Understanding your own reasons for growing chickens will help you choose the right flock and get setup with the right equipment. The main reasons people grow their own chickens are:

 

  • to have a supply of fresh eggs,
  • for fresh meat,
  • pest and weed control,
  • and a supply of nitrogen-rich manure.

What you plan to do with your flock will determine (to some degree) what you will need to do to get set up. For example, if you want to let your chickens run through your garden once in a while to gobble up insects, you will need to set up some means for controlling their access to the garden so they can't get in to eat tiny seedlings. If you want chickens for eggs, you will need to include nesting boxes in your hen house design.

The end purpose will also determine the composition of your flock. Some chickens, such as Leghorns, have been bred as layers, others have been bred for rapid meat production. Yet others, such as Rhode Island Reds, are good dual-purpose birds. If you are raising chickens to show, you will become very selective about their breeding.

The Brood

A good way to get started is to buy baby chicks. They are usually available from feed stores in early  Spring. You can also start by getting fertilized eggs and keeping them in an incubator until they hatch. Either way, you will need to get a brooder and keep it in the house or put it out in the garage where cats and other predators can't get at the chicks. For heat, be aware that chicks need 95 degrees for the first week. You can drop this by 5 degrees every week until they're 6 weeks old. Then they are fairly feathered out and unless you live in a very cold area, they are able to withstand normal temperatures. 

If you don't have a formal brooder, your heat source is usually a light bulb or heat-lamp. Be careful with these not to leave them low enough for the chicks to burn themselves. Also, especially with heat-lamps, be careful that the bedding can't catch fire. 

Fresh water should be available to the chicks at all times. As an energy supplement, I add one tablespoon of sugar per quart the first time I water newly hatched chicks.  For more information go this site:

http://www.i4at.org/lib2/chickens.htm

www.backyardchickens.com

 

LINKS TO FREE COOP PLANS!

 

http://www.ext.vt.edu